HAND STITCHING

If there is thread on our product it was done completely by hand. The technique that I use is called saddle stitching. I start by creating a guide line, mark my leather for spacing between holes, and use a stitching awl or pricking iron to create slits in the leather just big enough to get a needle and thread through. Once these holes are created, I take a piece of thread with a needle on both ends and pass each needle through each hole from both sides. 

This creates a lock or knot in each stitch. The true value and benefit of saddle stitching by hand is that if a stitch is torn the entire line of stitching WILL NOT UNRAVEL.

The same cannot be said about sewing leather with a sewing machine. Sure the cost of a product can be reduced greatly due to the amount of labor that can be saved when using a sewing machine, but don't be fooled into thinking that the integrity and durability of the piece will even be comparable. 

The difference in time spent hand stitching or sewing a piece by machine is drastic. A wallet that could be assembled and stitched with a sewing machine in minutes would take hours to sew and finish by hand. 

HAND BURNISHED AND SEALED

I burnish all edges by hand with with canvas. My process starts with hand beveling the edges, sanding through multiple grades of sandpaper when necessary and finishing it off with Tokonole and time spent hand buffing each edge. 

EDGE FINISH

For edge finish my primary technique is to dye the edges by hand before burnishing and sealing them. This process leaves a more natural feel in the hand than an edge that has been finished with edge paint. 

I do use edge paint as well on a few select items and when requested. Edge paint has  a bold effect, but can in the long term crack or peel. Take a look at your ol ladies purse, and I'm sure you can find some edge paint that may have cracked or peeled. There is a never ending debate in the leather crafting world whether edge paint, or dye/burnish is the longer lasting of the two. At the end of the day, everything patinas and you just have to decide which look and feel you would prefer in the long term. Embrace the worn look, it is what handmade leather goods are all about! 

HAND CUT

All one off custom pieces are cut out by hand. I start with a leather hide, trace an outline by hand and cut each piece out individually with a knife. This is an extremely tedious and time consuming process that requires a lot of skill, accuracy and patience. 

Ready to ship normal stock, and non custom Mid and Long wallets are cut out with a hand operated non-powered clicker press.